Kalamkari Kurti

Kalam- kari, a piece of work done using a kalam or a pen.

The piece of traditional cloth I am trying to read is a hand woven cotton kurti with block printed kalamkari. It is a right example of imperfection. The accuracy of the motifs has not really worked out efficiently for the craftsmen. There are quite a few areas where the motifs and the colour are overlapping each other, creating commotion in the subtlety of the cloth. Natural dyes are used in the shades of red and maroon. A finer black line is used to outline the motifs.

Since it is a block printed piece of cloth, I am guessing the source to be Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. The process and the usage of the medium is purely local and for socio- economic reasons. This inclination towards keeping the design distinct denotes the tradition of a state. Thus keeping the traditional alive. Machilipatnam being the port town has seen different inspirations and has evolved to being what it is today. It has been the center of block makers and printers through centuries. The motifs are characterized by culturally diverse states that brought in their preference of style and taste.

Immense trade relationships during different rules and periods for example, the Islamic influence of art by the Qutub Shahi rulers who had strong trade relationships with the Persian Safavid Empire. Later export to the Dutch and the British, choreographed the style of motifs. Machalipatnam being a port town catered to major textile exports of the period. ‘Chintz’, displays varied imagery from stylized plants and creepers, also added to the contemporary style of Kalamkari motifs.

“The Land where every 80km language changes and so, does the art and craft, welcomed each pattern of motif with the same intelligence and intensity, no doubt, perceptions are meant to differ and art is born to evolve.”

I really cannot state if the motifs on the kurti are inspired by the Persians or Chintz. It brings to me the good looks of its handcrafted blocks, the softness of the hand woven cotton cloth. This piece has many errors in its making. Yet it deserves its right attention.

Reference

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalamkari

http://andhrakalamkari.blogspot.in/2013/04/motifs-saga-on-fabric.html

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-01-20/hyderabad/30646611_1_srikalahasti-qutub-shahi-fine-art

http://sahapedia.org/kalamkari-and-its-relation-to-other-practices/